Visit Paseo El Carmen in Santa Tecla

Paseo El Carmen is an ordinary road in Santa Tecla, El Salvador, that has been transformed from a run down back street into a thriving attraction.

Santa Tecla was founded in 1854, and was briefly the capital city of El Salvador, from 1855-1859, until the government decided to return the capital to earthquake prone San Salvador. This was a period of great economic success, due to the profitable coffee industry and Santa Tecla grew into a well developed city, with parks, grand buildings and a magnificent church.

Gradually, over a period of many years Santa Tecla went into a period of decline. Currently the mayor of Santa Tecla is investing in the city, in an attempt to make it a safe and attractive place to visit.

During the last two years I have seen Paseo El Carmen blossom, with restaurants opening, new stretches of the road resurfaced and the area is indeed becoming attractive. There are permanent art features on the street, an increased police presence and more than 10,000 people are visiting each week.

El Salvador does not attract large numbers of foreign tourists, despite there being numerous places worthy of visiting. This is largely due to the perception that it is not safe to visit, with most people focusing on the civil war or the subsequent gang related problems.

If areas like Santa Tecla can continue to develop in this way and encourage visitors then perhaps El Salvador will gain its rightful place on the international tourist stage.

Please join me as we take a Saturday evening stroll along pedestrianised Paseo El Carmen, and savour the delights it has to offer.

Photo Credit: Casa Cicak, all rights reserved.

Photo Credit: Casa Cicak, all rights reserved

1 Calle Poniente is situated in Santa Tecla, on the outskirts of El Salvador's capital city and it runs parallel to the Panamericana, the major highway that connects Alaska in the north with Argentina in the south (give or take a missing piece through the Darian Gap between Panama and Columbia).

Even though this road is eleven blocks long, if you were to ask any expat in San Salvador the whereabouts of 1 Calle Poniente in Santa Tecla you would probably draw a blank stare.

On the other hand, Paseo El Carmen is just a one block section of 1 Calle Poniente, that runs from the Palacio Municipal to the Church of El Carmen, and it's name is synonymous with culture, restaurants, bars, entertainment and the most important quality of all - safety.

On a Saturday evening, it is pedestrianised from outside the Palacio all the way to 7 Avenida Norte, where a new car park has just been built adjacent to El Cafetalon, providing a safe place for evening tourists to leave their cars.

Stalls line the streets, selling everything from freshly produced food to artisanal souvenirs, tables and chairs are set out to enable people to pause from their strolling to eat and drink, live music plays and the place is a hive of activity, almost like a much smaller version of Los Ramblas in Barcelona.

Photo Credits: Casa Cicak, all rights reserved

Just over halfway along 1 Calle Poniente, on the corner of 2 Avenida Norte stands the impressive Palace of Fine Arts.

Built in a Colonial style in 1911, and currently painted in pale green and white, it stands out against the backdrop of inner city decay and grime.

Amazingly, it was originally built as a private house, by the Casteneda family and handed over to the municipality in the 1920s, as a result of debts owed, to become home to the municipal council.

Despite being damaged by the 2001 earthquake, large parts of the building are accessible to the public, with a coffee shop, bar and El Salvador's first children's library situated around the inner courtyard.

One block further along is the impressive 19th century neo-gothic church of El Carmen, which was built from brick and talpetate, a building material that is made from volcanic ash. The inside of the building was declared unsafe after the 2001 earthquake, but the facade and steeple still provide a very visible and ornate landmark.

Photo Credist: Casa Cicak, all rights reserved

El Salvador is most famous for its Fernando Llort inspired work, which is very bright and colourful.

There are examples of this along Paseo el Carmen, notably the brightly painted Galeria de Tecla that sells all manner of artisanal goods.

Along Paseo el Carmen you will see all kinds of artists at work: painters, jewellery makers, people making themselves the art (check out the photo below of the lady tied in red string).

Being able to see them in action on the street, or catching a glimpse of a workshop through an open doorway and being able to wander in to watch just helps to give Paseo el Carmen a truly Bohemian feel.

Photo Credit: Casa Cicak, all rights reserved

You will find a wide range of foods available as you walk along Paseo El Carmen. From Salvadoran delicacies such as pupusas and crazy corn, Mexican food, pizza, kebabs, freshly squeezed fruit juices and locally produced alcoholic drinks. The choice is almost limitless.

There are tables and chairs set out so that you can sit down to eat, and maybe people watch as the street gets busy after nightfall. Or, you can do as many others do and graze you way along, eating whatever takes your fancy as you walk from one end of Paseo El Carmen to the other.

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Photo Credit: Casa Cicak, all rights reserved

There are within the region of twenty bars and restaurants on Paseo El Carmen, so you are bound to find somewhere to suit your requirements.

You will find everything from bars where you can dance to quiet family run venues that serve local food. Cake shops, bread shops, vegetarian (Yemaya), cafe bars (Lima limon), upscale restaurants and everything in between.

We like to start at one end, and visit maybe seven or eight bars, cafes and stalls, having a drink and a boca (snack) at each one. We have tried having a proper meal at one restaurant but we prefer to move on and enjoy the evolving atmosphere.

Photo Credit: Casa Cicak, all rights reserved

From clubs and bars, to street entertainment, Paseo El Carmen has it all.

There is an area on one of the street corners that is an empty space that is used to host bands at a weekend, and there are always musicians playing inside and outside various bars and restaurants.

In an evening it is completely safe to take the whole family. You see entire families out for an evening together, from great grandparents right down to baby sleeping in the pushchair. It is the Salvadoran way to allow their children to stay up late in an evening, and this helps to give it a very family friendly atmosphere. Whenever we go we take Cicka Junior in his pushchair and we are always made to feel welcome wherever we stop to eat or drink.

The Paseo El Carmen website has an updated list of what events are on.